Dive into the heart of Istanbul, a city where breathtaking beauty clashes with complex realities. What if the romantic visions of Istanbul you hold dear are only a fraction of the story? This curated list of five books peels back the layers, offering accessible pathways into Turkey’s captivating history, vibrant culture, and often turbulent modern politics. Beyond the historical accounts, expect moments of levity, artistic appreciation, and compelling narratives that will transport you to the city's bustling streets and hidden corners. Get ready to explore Istanbul through the eyes of those who know it best, all while sipping a strong Turkish coffee or a comforting glass of black tea.
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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Istanbul (https://www.ft.com/globetrotter/istanbul).
As the Anatolian rock legend Cem Karaca poignantly sings in "Always Suffering," a song written after years of political exile, "Stop! Let the coffee water boil / Tell me about Istanbul, how was it?" He yearns for a positive report, begging his companion to "tell me people laughed there," even admitting, "I like it, even if it’s a lie.” This raw emotion encapsulates the central tension explored in these literary works.
The books selected here grapple with this very conflict: the idealized image of Istanbul versus the often harsh realities faced by its inhabitants. They provide a window into Turkey's history, culture, and contemporary political climate, offering both insightful analysis and engaging storytelling. These selections are based on personal experience, having been chosen by someone with seven years of experience working in the country as a correspondent.
Here are five books that will help you understand Istanbul beyond the surface:
1. ‘Midnight at the Pera Palace’ by Charles King (2014)
Imagine a single hotel witnessing the birth of a nation. Charles King masterfully uses Istanbul's iconic Pera Palace hotel as the stage for this historical drama. This isn't your typical dry history book. King, a Georgetown professor known for his engaging storytelling, propels you through the dramatic collapse of the Ottoman Empire and the tumultuous decades that followed. Expect a whirlwind of excitement, upheaval, and even violence. The book is brimming with colorful anecdotes about spies, Bolshevik assassins, and even a lively dance club called Maxim, which, according to King, "helped train an entire generation of Istanbullus to do the foxtrot." But here's where it gets controversial... The book also serves as a lament for the Greek, Jewish, and Armenian communities who were once integral to Istanbul's identity but were, according to King, systematically marginalized by the modern Turkish republic's push for a homogenous national identity. Was this an inevitable consequence of nation-building, or a deliberate act of cultural erasure?
2. ‘Dare to Disappoint: Growing up in Turkey’ by Özge Samancı (2015)
On the surface, this is a deeply personal graphic memoir by Özge Samancı, a Turkish-American artist reflecting on her childhood in Izmir, a coastal city. But dig a little deeper, and you'll find a powerful exploration of Turkish identity and societal expectations. Samancı tackles complex political topics with a light touch, answering questions you might be too afraid to ask. Why are images of Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, so ubiquitous? Why do so many Turkish parents steer their children towards careers in engineering? And why was enjoying a bowl of cornflakes considered a rebellious act in the 1980s? "Dare to Disappoint" is a sweet, irreverent, and incredibly insightful guide to understanding daily life in Turkey. It's also a relatively quick read, perfect for devouring over several glasses of çay (tea). And this is the part most people miss... While seemingly lighthearted, the book subtly critiques traditional gender roles and expectations within Turkish society. Do you think this personal narrative effectively captures the broader experiences of Turkish youth?
3. ‘Istanbul, Istanbul: A Novel’ by Burhan Sönmez (2015)
Picture this: you're watching the sunset paint the Bosphorus in fiery hues or wandering through the charming, cobbled streets of Beyoğlu. It's easy to be captivated by Istanbul's beauty. But how do you reconcile this idyllic image with the constant stream of news reports detailing political repression under President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan? Burhan Sönmez, a Kurdish novelist and the current president of PEN International, attempts to bridge this divide in his novel. This isn't a lighthearted read. Set in grim underground prison cells, the novel portrays characters who use storytelling as a means of escaping their torture and clinging to life. The setting is deliberately vague, making it applicable to various periods of repression throughout the past century. The cycles of oppression and retribution seem to repeat endlessly. But here's where it gets controversial... Some critics argue that Sönmez's portrayal of Turkish society is overly bleak and doesn't reflect the resilience and hope found within the country. Do you think art has a responsibility to portray reality accurately, or is it permissible to exaggerate for dramatic effect?
4. ‘Istanbul: Memories and the City’ by Orhan Pamuk (2003)
Turkey's Nobel laureate, Orhan Pamuk, delves into themes of sibling rivalry, art, love, and melancholy in this part-memoir, part-biography of Istanbul. Pamuk masterfully interweaves his personal experiences with the history and soul of the city. Some of his descriptions, such as portraying Istanbul as a dreary "black-and-white city" in decline, might seem at odds with the vibrant metropolis of today. However, the pervasive issue of poverty remains a stark reality. Pamuk explores the impact of urban development on memory and culture, and grapples with Turkey's complex "love-hate relationship with the western gaze." He contemplates the very act of loving a place and using it as a canvas for self-expression, realizing that "anything we say about the city’s essence says more about our own lives and our own states of mind." And this is the part most people miss... Pamuk's work often sparks debate about the role of intellectuals in society. Does he offer a genuine critique of Turkey, or does his perspective reflect a self-imposed exile from his own culture?
5. ‘To the City: Life and Death along the Ancient Walls of Istanbul’ by Alexander Christie-Miller (2024)
This is more than just a travelogue; it's a beautifully written and sharply observed guide to the sociopolitical tensions of the Erdoğan era. Christie-Miller uses Istanbul's ancient Byzantine city walls as a backdrop to tell the stories of the people who live in their shadow. He gives voice to a supporter of the government who finds solace in the ruling party's community, a Kurdish political activist frustrated by the prejudice he faces, and a woman dedicated to rescuing Istanbul's street animals, running a shelter for 3,000 dogs. Christie-Miller unfolds their stories with empathy and nuance. Unusually, he interweaves these contemporary narratives with the historical account of Mehmet the Conqueror's conquest of Constantinople in 1453 – a pivotal moment that serves as a “talisman of modern Turkish identity” and is frequently referenced by the current president. But here's where it gets controversial... By constantly invoking the past, is Erdoğan fostering a sense of national pride or manipulating history to serve his political agenda?
Which of these books resonates most with your perception of Istanbul? What other books would you recommend to someone trying to understand the city today? Share your thoughts and recommendations in the comments below! And be sure to follow us on Instagram at @ftglobetrotter (https://www.instagram.com/ftglobetrotter/)
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